How to use this calculator
- Describe your current loan either by its original terms (amount, rate, term, and start date) or by today's balance and remaining term — whichever you have handy.
- Enter the new rate and term you're being quoted, and the month the new loan would start.
- Open Advanced to add closing costs, discount points, whether you'd roll those costs into the loan, and any cash-out amount.
- Compare the new payment and monthly savings, then check both break-even numbers: how long the closing cash takes to pay back, and the fuller total-cost break-even.
- Review the cumulative cost and balance charts and the new loan's amortization schedule. Use Share link to save the exact comparison.
How it's calculated
When you describe the current loan by its original terms, the calculator re-runs that loan's own amortization schedule from its start date up to today to derive today's balance and remaining term, then compares it against a new loan for the rest.
The new loan amount is the balance being refinanced, plus any cash-out, plus closing costs and points when they're rolled into the loan instead of paid in cash. Points are charged as a percent of that base amount (1 point = 1% of the loan) before any rolled-in costs are added.
Break-even (out-of-pocket) divides the cash actually paid at closing by the monthly savings — the number most "how long to break even" rules of thumb use. When costs are rolled into the loan instead of paid in cash, there's no cash due at closing, so this card shows "No cash due" rather than treating $0 out of pocket as an instant break-even.
Break-even (total cost) instead compares net position, month by month: cumulative payments made plus the balance still owed, under the new loan versus the current one — the month the new loan's combined figure first falls to or below the current loan's is the break-even. Comparing balances as well as payments matters because rolling costs or cash-out into the loan, or resetting the term, lowers the payment or the cash paid today without necessarily leaving you ahead — those dollars are still owed, just later. When the new loan's net position never catches up within either loan's remaining term, this card shows "Never" instead of a misleadingly short or immediate number.
Lifetime interest and total cost figures compare all the payments remaining on the current loan, as-is, against every payment on the new loan (net of cash-out received). Both totals keep full precision per month and round only the numbers shown.
Assumptions
- The current loan's rate is fixed and payments have been made on schedule; missed or extra payments already made on it aren't modeled.
- Points are assumed to be discount points paid to lower the rate, priced as a flat percent of the base loan amount — actual point pricing varies by lender and market conditions.
- This calculator doesn't model appraisal outcomes, underwriting, or a home value change, so the loan-to-value of the new loan isn't checked against PMI or FHA mortgage-insurance rules — for that, use the Mortgage or FHA Loan calculators.
- Property tax, insurance, and HOA dues are assumed unchanged by the refinance and are left out of the payment comparison, which focuses on principal and interest.
- Results are estimates for planning purposes, not a Loan Estimate. Your actual rate, costs, and payment depend on your lender and current market rates.
Frequently asked questions
What is the break-even point on a refinance?
It's how long it takes your monthly savings to pay back what the refinance cost you. If closing costs are $6,000 and the new loan saves $250 a month, the simple break-even is 24 months — after that, you're ahead. This calculator also shows a fuller "total cost" break-even that accounts for any cash-out received and interest on costs rolled into the loan.
How much does it typically cost to refinance?
Refinance closing costs commonly run about 2%–5% of the loan amount, covering the lender's origination fee, appraisal, title search and insurance, and recording fees — similar categories to a purchase closing, minus a few purchase-only fees. Ask your lender for a Loan Estimate that itemizes these costs for your specific refinance.
Should I pay closing costs in cash or roll them into the new loan?
Rolling costs into the loan avoids cash at closing but means you pay interest on those costs for the life of the loan, and it raises your new balance. Paying cash keeps the loan amount lower and usually reaches true break-even sooner, if you have the cash available. Compare both using the toggle here — the total-cost figures already include the extra interest from rolling costs in.
What's a good rule of thumb for when refinancing makes sense?
A common rule of thumb is to refinance when the new rate is meaningfully lower — often cited as at least 0.5–1 percentage point — and you plan to stay in the home past the break-even point. The right answer depends on your specific costs, savings, and how long you'll keep the loan, which is what this calculator is for.
What is a cash-out refinance?
A cash-out refinance replaces your mortgage with a larger loan and gives you the difference in cash, using your home equity as collateral. It usually raises your balance and monthly payment (or extends how long you're paying), so it's worth comparing the new total cost against just keeping your current loan and financing the same need another way.
Do discount points lower my rate enough to be worth it?
Each point (1% of the loan amount) typically buys a rate reduction of roughly an eighth to a quarter of a percentage point, though pricing varies by lender and market. Points pay off only if you keep the loan long enough for the lower rate's monthly savings to exceed what you paid for the points — compare a with-points and without-points scenario here to see which wins for how long you plan to keep the loan.
Does refinancing restart my loan's amortization?
Yes. A new loan starts its own amortization schedule from its own balance, so early payments are again mostly interest. Extending your remaining term back out to 30 years can lower your payment noticeably, but it also means paying interest for longer, which shows up in the lifetime interest comparison here.
Can I use this calculator without knowing my exact current balance?
Yes — choose "Original loan terms" and enter your loan's starting amount, rate, term, and closing date. The calculator derives today's balance and remaining term the same way your servicer's amortization schedule would. If you have a recent mortgage statement, entering the balance and remaining term directly is a bit more precise.
Is refinancing to a shorter term worth it even without a lower rate?
A shorter term usually raises the monthly payment but cuts total interest substantially, since the balance is outstanding for less time — sometimes worth it even at a similar or slightly lower rate. Try a 15-year term here alongside your current term to compare the payment increase against the interest saved.
Why does my out-of-pocket break-even say "No cash due"?
That happens when there's no cash due at closing — because closing costs (and any points) are rolled into the new loan instead of paid up front. There's nothing you paid out of pocket today to "break even" on, but that doesn't mean the refinance is free: the total-cost break-even below it accounts for the extra interest on that larger loan balance, and can show "Never" if the new loan's payments plus remaining balance never actually catch up to keeping your current loan (common with rolled-in costs or a cash-out).
Related calculators
Related guides
Key terms
Sources
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — Your Home Loan Toolkit
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — Should I refinance?
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — Mortgages
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — Data Spotlight: Trends in discount points
- Freddie Mac — Primary Mortgage Market Survey (weekly average rates)
Disclaimer: This calculator provides estimates for educational purposes only and is not financial, tax, or legal advice or an offer of credit. Actual payments depend on your lender, loan terms, taxes, and insurance. Consult a qualified professional before making financial decisions.